![]() As long as your stiles are 1 1/2 inches wide or less, you can you European hinges with 0 mm plates and get a full overlay look. Without a face frame, the cabinets have to be edge banded and unless you have an automated edgebander, this is can be a pain. Last edited by Bruce Wrenn 02-14-2022 at 10:18 AM. A small pickup truck could haul a complete kitchen in one trip Bult the boxes on site and attach face frame. ![]() We used to (retired now) take them to the job in the flat, and face frames assembled. So SIMPLE, and looks like face frame construction. ![]() On end cabinet, you add an overlay panel to finish the end. Because face frames extend beyond the box, you already have a scribe stile to fit to wall. "Face frames are pocket screwed together and attached with pocket screws thru outside of cabinet, again hiding screws. You don't need a separate "hanging rail" on back of cabinet. Half inch thick, over lay back, also screwed and glued. Because only ends of cabinet run is seen, you do simple butt joints, screwed and glued. This means complete access to inside of cabinets, including pull out shelves and drawers. Basically, the face frame is shifted to the outside of the box, instead of inward. Mitch, I recommend getting a copy of Danny Proulx's book "Build Your Own Kitchen Cabinets." His method of construction allows the look of face frame with the use of Euro hardware. Im mostly confused about the face frame sizing and the clearance on the upper cabinet doors on the inside corners. Any advice or tips on this would be appreciated. I haven't done this on a face frame cabinet. I have a set of kitchen cabinets to build that are face frame cabinets with full overlay doors.
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